Situated in the far north of the Republic of the Congo, this massive and remote park is even bigger than Tanzania’s Ruaha. With only three camps and a total of 24 guest bedrooms in the entire region, Odzala-Kokoua is really deep in Africa’s equatorial forest and seems very far away from civilisation. My first evening here, sitting on the deck of Ngaga Camp with the forest surrounding me, knowing the gorillas are somewhere nearby, is a combination of feeling absolute serenity and being somehow overwhelmed by the sheer vastness of the forest all around.