Wilderness Sabyinyo

OVERVIEW:

Sabyinyo used to be the absolute go-to place for a luxury Rwanda gorilla-trekking experience. And today, although a couple of new and more exorbitant options have superseded it on the extravagance scale, it remains an impressive and wonderful lodge! It has a superb location in the foothills of the Virunga Mountains, with views of the epic volcanoes that surround it – and it’s only a 20-minute drive from the Volcanoes National Park headquarters. This means you have quick, early access to start your treks. Heading into these ancient forests to spend time with the mountain gorillas is a once-in-a-lifetime experience – to come face to face with our deep past never fails to amaze. That’s the main reason to come to this part of the world. However, once the morning trek is complete (you are permitted to spend one hour in the gorillas’ company), there are plenty of other things to do with your afternoons. There are glorious hikes (of varying length depending on how you feel after the morning’s trek) through magnificent landscapes – deep gorges, pristine lakes, and a choice of volcanoes! You can do guided bird-watching walks, enjoy a cultural experience at one of the local villages or markets, explore caves where lava tunnels have forged a path through the mountains, or visit Dian Fossey’s research camp, where she is buried next to some of her favourite gorillas. There are also the golden monkeys to visit, which is another morning trek and usually takes place on your first day, as a taster before you meet the gorillas. The rooms at Sabyinyo are spacious and elegant, and all have breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. There’s also a great in-room massage service, which can be perfect after a long day of adventures. The food and service, as with all Wilderness properties, is excellent, and this is still the best value luxury lodge in the region.

ACCESS & LOCATION:

Wilderness Sabyinyo is located just outside Volcanoes National Park, in the north-west of Rwanda. The setting is truly magnificent, with views out across the ring of volcanoes that surrounds the property. The Virunga Mountains, which extend into Uganda and Bwindi Forest, are the two best locations in the world for seeing mountain gorillas. These dense rainforests are home to an incredible diversity of wildlife (more than 120 mammal and 350 bird species), as well as being home to about a third of the entire population of remaining mountain gorillas. There are approximately 250 individuals spread amongst ten families – and eight of these families are habituated, which means they are comfortable with the presence of humans.

Wilderness Sabyinyo is accessed by a 3 to 4-hour road transfer from Kigali. There are also helicopter flights from Kigali, which are obviously stunning as you fly over some of the most dramatic landscapes on the planet, but this mode of travel is significantly more expensive.

ACCOMMODATION & FACILITIES AT WILDERNESS SABYINYO:

The six rooms at Wilderness Sabyinyo are cosy cottages, mostly stone-built with terracotta tile roofs. Each has a large sitting area, a comfortable double or twin beds, an en-suite bathroom with shower and separate bath, flush toilets, a dressing room, a minibar, a safe, and a sheltered veranda where guests can sit out and admire the breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. All cottages sit amidst Sabyinyo’s beautiful and perfectly maintained gardens, flowers from which can be found in vases around the property. The two suites are more spacious than the cottages, with an increased seating area and a television that’s pre-loaded with films and documentaries about Rwandan history, culture, and local wildlife. The family room is a cottage with a second bedroom, complete with its own en-suite bathroom and connected by a shared veranda. The rooms all have a fireplace in the seating area, and the bedding is wonderfully snug. Hot water bottles are available on request, because evenings can be cool at this altitude during certain times of the year.

The main lodge building is large, and delightfully appointed with a comfortable sitting area, a dining room, a library and games room, and a small shop. Two wide patios with ample seating offer spectacular views of the Virunga volcanoes and surrounding farmland – ideal places for dining, enjoying afternoon tea, or simply reading a book. Dining is private here and the food is excellent. There is some room service as well, should you wish to enjoy a meal on your private veranda. There are steep steps between the cottages and the main part of the lodge, but they have recently added a new 4x4 buggy to help guests if required. Unfortunately this buggy cannot be used on your morning treks!

ACTIVITIES AT WILDERNESS SABYINYO:

The prime activity here is trekking, to see the incredible mountain gorillas of Volcanoes National Park. Your first morning at the lodge is usually spent golden monkey trekking as a great acclimatisation, and the mornings after this are devoted to gorilla treks. There are also lots of activities to do in the afternoons, fantastic birding, and various hikes amidst stunning scenery. All gorilla and golden monkey treks are enjoyed in the presence of highly experienced park rangers, who know the gorilla families intimately. Please be aware that some of the activities listed below need to be pre-booked and some come at extra cost. And only 56 gorilla tracking permits are issued on any one day, so it’s important to book this safari well in advance, especially at the peak times of Jun–Oct and Jan–Feb.

• Gorilla trekking

  - There are 12 habituated groups of mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park. Be ready for potentially a 1–8 kilometre trek depending on exactly where the gorillas are on any particular morning. Sabyinyo has some basic kit you can rent, but it’s essential to bring a good pair of worn-in and comfortable boots. There can be mud underfoot and some steep climbs – however, coming face to face with a gorilla group makes the climb worthwhile! They will dazzle you with their behaviour, whether grooming, eating, or play-fighting, and you can see the intelligence in their eyes. Gorilla permits are not included in the accommodation rates. It’s good to chat about treks with one of our consultants who has been to see the gorillas, as they will have top tips about what to bring and what to expect.

• Golden monkeys trekking

  - This is also a real highlight and similar in form to the gorilla trek, with the golden monkeys always fun to observe! If you are feeling sprightly, you can also hike all the way up Mount Bisoke volcano, where the views from the top are truly breathtaking.

• Conservation, guided walks, birding, cultural trips and Dian Fossey’s grave

  - Every day, you can decide how far you’d like to travel, starting with easy walks on the lower slopes – a simple stroll around Sabyinyo’s lovely gardens. There’s also a good array of birding and guided nature walks. Just discuss with your guide what you’d like to do, and they will give great advice on what not to miss out on! For avid hikers this is a wonderland, with extraordinary volcano walks and amazing viewpoints. Some highlights are the twin lakes of Ruhondo and Burera, the Musanze Caves with their amazing lava tunnels, and Iby’wacu village for a cultural trip to meet the locals. Another pilgrimage you can make is to see the grave of Dian Fossey, which is at high altitude and next to the remains of her old research centre alongside some of her favourite gorillas.

*This property is unfenced and located in a wildlife area, so large and potentially dangerous animals do pass through. If you opt to stay here, always be alert when walking around the camp and request for a member of staff to escort you if you have any concerns. Any guest is escorted after dark as a matter of course.